Maricélia
Almeida dos Santos
Universidade
Federal do Sul da Bahia, Brazil
E-mail: mariceliaalmeida19@gmail.com
Bruna Borges
Soares
Universidade
Federal do Sul da Bahia, Brazil
E-mail: soaresborges.b@gmail.com
Lucas Farias de
Sousa
Universidade
Estadual de Santa Cruz, Brazil
E-mail: eng.sousalucas@gmail.com
Edmar Costa
Alves
Instituto
Federal de Educação, Ciência e Tecnologia de Rondônia, Brazil
E-mail: edmar.meta@gmail.com
Submission: 5/16/2020
Revision: 7/3/2020
Accept: 7/14/2020
ABSTRACT
The production of cosmetics has received attention due to the high demand for beauty and personal care items. In contrast, negative interferences are related to this sector, from obtaining the raw material to the final disposal of packaging. This study aimed to identify critical points and opportunities for environmental improvements in the cosmetic industry in southern Bahia based on the principles of Cleaner Production (CP). The methodology used was based on the principles of Cleaner Production proposed by UNEP/UNIDO and the data collection was carried out through on-site visits including consultation to the company’s files. Also was realized a cross-analysis of the study results with elements identified in the literature that allowed the identification and discussion of CP opportunities, as well as suggestions for improvements to the critical points found. The consumption of raw materials and the generation of solid waste were aspects with more critical points. The refuse of material and inadequate destination of solid residues (oil drums, pallets, among others), as well as the replacement of raw materials by alternative and renewable sources, reverse logistics implementation and redesign of the packaging process were the opportunities for improvement aimed. Other critical points were related to the consumption of water, energy and generation of atmospheric gases. The suggested proposals can promote the reduction in material waste, rework and productivity gains. In addition, they serve as a subsidy and direct environmentally actions more appropriate, once the "clean beauty industry" seems to be a growing trend and a business opportunity, as well as can be requested by environmentally responsible customers in some moments.
Keywords: reduction at source; opportunities for improvement; environmental management; environmental impacts
1.
INTRODUCTION
Cosmetics products are defined as a combination
of substances that have direct contact with external parts of the human body or
the teeth, which have the main purpose of cleaning, perfuming, beautifying,
protecting, keeping them in good condition or eliminating body odors (Cosmetics
Europe, 2019a). Sector cosmetics covers a wide variety of products in seven
categories - oral hygiene, skincare, sun protection, haircare, decorative
cosmetics, bodycare, and perfumes.
In the cosmetics industry, it has expanded
worldwide and received significant attention from consumers. In Brazil, the
personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics sector (HPPC) has grown over the past
ten years, consolidating the country in the fourth world position in
consumption and directly contributing to the country's wealth generation (ABIHPEC,
2019).
The frequent use and hard demand suggest that
these products have become an essential part of our daily lives, and related
production processes must be properly evaluated and managed to avoid
environmental damage. Although it presents relevant importance, the activities
of this sector can negatively interfere in the environment. According to
Vargas-Gonzalez et al. (2019), in the cosmetic sector, there is a great
depletion of natural resources from the extraction process of the raw material
for manufacture until its post-consumption.
To obtain cosmetics, a considerable amount of
raw materials is required. Due to its complex formulation, each cosmetic line
has different characteristics adjusted for its purpose (Galembeck and Csordas,
2011). The selection of the raw material is an important element in this
production, as obtaining it can cause significant environmental impacts. In
addition to resource consumption, other impacts may also be associated such as
packaging, distribution, and consumption reaching the post-consumption phase
(Bom et al., 2019).
New proposals emerge in order to improve the
environmental situation, looking for tools that induce innovation in their
business models (Bai et al., 2015). Among the environmental management tools
used, there is the Cleaner Production (CP) (Matos et al., 2018). The CP
emphasizes the implementation of best environmental practices in manufacturing
processes through the continuous application of a preventive environmental
strategy integrated with processes, products and services, to increase
efficiency and reduce risks to humans beings, as well as the environment (UNEP,
1994).
The improvement in product quality which
reduces the consumption of raw materials and inputs, as well as minimizing the
generation of residues are among the great results achieved. The utility of all
models and sizes have been adopted this alternative, enabling a great growth of
the practice over the years, due to improvements both in technology, processes
and organizational (Matos et al., 2018).
For the implementation of Cleaner Production,
it is necessary to adopt some actions, which can vary in three levels of
intervention whose goal is to prioritize activities (Barbosa, 2018) with a
focus on minimization and reuse of waste and atmospheric emissions. Those
actions may include level 1, with a focus on reducing waste at the source
(Denham et al., 2015); level 2 through actions aimed at internal recycling
(such as energy and advanced materials recovery and/or its own production
process); besides level 3, which include external recycling (waste recycling by
other companies as raw materials), and biogenic cycles with the reintegration
of organic matter into the environment by a natural process (Filho et al.,
2019).
In view of the expansion of the cosmetics and
personal care sector over the years and the environmental interferences caused,
it is necessary to implement actions that can positively contribute to
environmental sustainability in the production stage. This study aims to
identify the opportunities for applying Cleaner Production in the cosmetics
industry in Southern Bahia that can guide decision-makers implementing
environmental improvements, in addition to pointing out the benefits that such
opportunities can bring for the organization.
2.
DATA AND METHODOLOGY
2.1.
Research method and data gathering
procedure
The
methodology has been based on the principles proposed by UNEP/UNIDO for Cleaner
Production. In this way, information was collected on each unitary process that
is included within the limits of the study, as well as input and output
relevant.
Data
collection occurred from July 2019 to February 2020 through on-site visits and
consultation of the organization's files. A cosmetics factory was used as a
case study.
The
main information recorded was about the consumption of natural resources and
secondary materials, energy consumption (electric and fuel) besides data on the
generation of liquid effluents and solid waste.
The
cross-analysis of the case study results with elements identified in the
literature allowed the identification and discussion of CP opportunities, as
well as in the suggestions for improvements to the critical points found. An
Environmental Technical Guide (CETESB, 2012) was used as supporting material.
2.2.
Location
and characteristics of the case study
The
cosmetics factory where the case study was conducted is located in the south of
Bahia. The region is administratively composed of 26 cities and comprises one
of the main economic centers of the state (SEI, 2015). The company is
responsible for processing capillary and body products and classified as the
small to medium polluting potential (CEPRAM, 2018).
The
production occurs for demand. On average are manufactured 1.4 million products
per year between oils and creams. Its catalog includes 5 categories of products
subdivided into hair and skincare.
The
skincare line comprises body oils. These are suitable to nourish and moisturize
the skin. The hair care line comprises oils, tip repairman, styling ointment
and combing cream. These products are indicated for nutrition, hydration,
repair tips of the fragile, as well as shaping and aligning the threads. The
products also vary with the essences (aromatic substances) and colorants used,
resulting in 21 different types of products.
3.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
3.1.
Description of the production
process
In
general, in order to obtain finished products, the production process is
subdivided into the reception and stock of raw material stages; separation and
preparation; mixture; filling and
primary packaging; secondary packaging; final product storage, and shipping
(Figure 01). Other different steps take place in the shaping ointment
production and tip repairman (e. g. heating the material).
The
production process begins with the arrival of the raw materials. The mineral
oil in nature, the main raw material, is received in 200-liter plastic drum
containers. This material remains in these recipients until the moment of use.
Other inputs are taken to the stock, where they are stored on shelves and
pallets. This step also includes the receipt of packaging and labels, as well
as storage of the packaging after labeled. The labeling occurs in an automated
way, in the case of packing capillary oil, and manually in all other cases.
The
process of making skin and hair oils is similar, both involve the use of
mechanical processes. The mineral oil is sent to the production area using an
electric motor. First, the raw material goes through the filtration process to
remove impurities (small solid particles of dirt), then, the filtered raw
material follows to the mixing tank, where other items are added (colorants and
essences). The difference between the two processes is that in the production
of body oil one wetting agent is added, which is not added in the capillary
oil.
Figure 01: Flowchart of the production process.
The
beeswax and petroleum jelly give the styling ointment a pasty consistency that at
room temperature becomes a solid product. The coagulant is used to make the tip
repairer. The substance causes a change in the viscosity of the mixture, giving
it a higher density, without changing its physical state. In these products are
added essences and colorants that give color, aroma and other properties as
well.
The
hair cream manufacturing is realized manually at room temperature. In addition
to mineral oil, colorants and essences also water and an emulsifier are used in
this process. The emulsifier, an important substance for hair cream, allows the
water and oil (immiscible substances) to mix, forming a creamy product. This
stage comprises the homogenization of phases aqueous and fatty phases.
After
the materials are ready they are filled in recipient with different dimensions
(skin and body oil in 60 and 100 ml packing, styling ointment in 40 g packing,
tip repairer oil in recipients of 30ml and hair cream in 90g packing).
Secondary packaging and storage steps are common to all products. They can be
grouped with heat-shrinkable films plastic or in cardboard boxes and then they
are sent to the finished goods stock.
The
cosmetic products obey the detailed composition and labeling requirements
(BRASIL, 1976). Thus, the activity is regulated by Anvisa, a Brazilian sanitary
surveillance agency, that regulates, controls and inspects products, substances
and services of interest to health, which includes cosmetic products.
3.2.
Environmental aspects and impacts
- Consumption of raw materials and other inputs
Mineral
oil is used in all production lines (annual consumption of approximately 12,000
liters). In addition, other inputs are also consumed as coagulants, aromatic
essences, colorants, materials used in the filling and packaging stages
(labels; primary packaging, heat-shrinkable films and cardboard boxes). Input
suppliers are located in other cities, inside and outside the state boundaries,
and the acquisition is carried out according to stock low, as demand.
- Water consumption
Water
consumption in the production of cosmetics is small, except for skin creams
production. On average the annual consumption of water is 15,000 liters and the
use happens mainly in the hygiene and cleaning of equipment, washing the floors
and walls of the factory, as well as in the daily use of contributors (personal
hygiene and toilets). The water supply is carried by a municipal public
company.
- Energy consumption
The
electricity is used in transporting the main raw material (performed with
electric engine), in stirring of the mixer (mixing tank), automated labeling
process, filling and packaging processes, as well as ambient lighting and
ventilation. The annual consumption is 15,217 kWh and supply is carried out by
a concessionaire.
Most
processes realized are carried out at room temperature. Those that require
heating are done for a short period of time and the fuel used is liquefied
petroleum gas (LPG). On average are used 52 cylinders per year (~ 270.4 m³ of
gas).
- Generation of solid waste, wastewater and
emissions
The
main solid waste generated is unused packaging and lids, the plastic drum
containers of mineral oil, pallets, cardboard, recipients of input, plastic
refuse and heat-shrinkable film shavings, labels, as well as boxes used for
secondary packaging. Products outside specification or expiration date and waste
mineral oil (spilled oil into processes) also can be waste generated
eventually.
The
generation of packaging waste is one of the most significant impacts in the
sector, once a large amount of packaging and lids with defects are discarded
(approximately 10% of the total acquired). Linked to this, there is also a loss
of labels unusable when the packings are rejected.
In
the secondary packaging stage, there is a great loss of heat-shrinkable films.
The machine that performs this process does not scale the amount of plastic
efficiently, generating large amounts of shavings.
With
regard to wastewater, there is no treatment plant at the factory. The effluent
generated in the washing process (floors, walls, utensils and sanitary
effluents) are sent directly to the municipal treatment sewer system.
There
is also the emission of odorous substances in the entire production process,
from the handling of raw materials and inputs to the packaging process. The
production area does not have a ventilation system to reduce the concentration
of the air contaminants (dilution ventilation). There is also the greenhouse
gas emission direct occurs in the process that requires heating from fuel LPG
gas.
3.3.
Clean production application
opportunity
In
the company, there is no control over environmental aspects. For each of them,
were linked opportunities for Cleaner Production (Table 01). The actions were
classified according to the level of intervention: minimization of waste and/or
consumption of resources at source (level 1), internal recycling (level 2) or
reuse of waste (level 3), with a focus on external recycling. The theoretical
basis for each action (consulted literature) is also present.
Table 01:
Cleaner Production Application Opportunity
|
Linked
opportunities |
Consulted
literature |
Intervention
level |
|
Consumption of raw materials
and other inputs |
|
|
|
- Control on receipt of raw materials, based on quality tests and
definition of acceptable levels. |
CETESB (2012) |
Level 1- Reduction at source |
|
- Use of alternative raw materials based on plants and vegetable oils. |
Yara-Varón et al. (2017) |
|
|
- Partnerships with local suppliers also committed to environmental
issues. |
Carvalho and Barbieri (2012) |
|
|
- Improvement in the purchasing and sales system. |
Bom et al. (2019) |
|
|
- Prioritize the purchase of raw materials and inputs produced with
recyclable or recycled materials. |
Carvalho and Barbieri (2012) |
|
|
- Organize raw materials and supplies based on the FEFO (First
Expired, First Out) system to avoid discarding them by maturity, without use. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Supplier traceability (such as organic farming or sustainable forest
management). |
Carvalho and Barbieri (2012) |
|
|
- Training employees on the handle and transfer materials (in order to
avoid product damage, loss of materials, accidents with chemicals), and
consequently, more generation of solid waste and wastewater. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
Energy consumption |
|
|
|
- Replacement of energy conventional sources by alternative, more
sustainable options (when possible). |
COSMOS-standard (2019);
Cosmetics Europe (2019b) |
Level 1- Reduction at source |
|
- Installation of lamps with presence sensors to avoid unnecessary
energy consumption. |
COSMOS-standard (2019) |
|
|
- The shutdown of equipment and machinery when not in use. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Acquisition of a more modern sealing machine. This will increase the
efficiency of the packaging process, reducing the amounts of shavings (solid
waste), as well as reducing the consumption of electricity. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
Water consumption |
|
|
|
- Collection of rainwater for washing walls and floors and reuse in
toilets and processes that do not request treatment. |
Nunes et al. (2018) |
Level 1- Reduction at source |
|
- Installation of flow meters for identified the most critical
points/processes in relation to water consumption, in addition to possible
leaks. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Training employees in Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP). |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Employees’ awareness to reduce the consumption of water and cleaning
products. |
Xanthos and Walker (2017) |
|
|
Wastewater generation |
|
|
|
- Employees’ awareness to reduce the consumption of water and cleaning
products. |
Xanthos and Walker (2017) |
Level 1- Reduction at source Level 2- Internal recycling |
|
- Programmed production by color criteria (starting with the lightest
colors and moving to the darkest tones). This will promote a reduction in
cleaning practices between batches and, consequently, a reduction in the
consumption of water, cleaning materials and effluents generated. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Installation of
flow meters. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Wastewater treatment, to turn physical-chemical parameters in
accordance with the launching standards established by CONAMA Resolution
430/2011. |
CONAMA Resolution Brasil (2011) |
|
|
- Replacement of detergents for alternative products, with less impact
(vinegar and sodium bicarbonate). When it is not possible, dilute the
detergent before the use |
Machado (2012) |
|
|
- Training employees on the handle and transfer materials (in order to
avoid product damage, loss of materials, accidents with chemicals), and
consequently, more generation of solid waste and wastewater. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
Generation of atmospheric emissions |
|
|
|
- Cloister processes that emit volatile organic compounds or that
generate pollutant particles (or source emitters). |
CETESB (2012) |
Level 1- Reduction at source |
|
- Deployment of
exhaust fans. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Route planning, load reduction unnecessary, vehicle fleet
maintenance and tire pressure. This allows improving fuel consumption in the
product distribution phase and consequently releasing CO2 into the atmosphere
less). |
Nunes et al. (2018) |
|
|
Generation of solid waste |
|
|
|
- Reuse of plastic drum containers. - Acquisition of color trash cans to segregate waste. - Inspection of packing and caps before the filling process. |
National Solid Waste Policy Brasil (2010); CETESB (2012) |
Level 1- Reduction at source Level 2- Internal recycling Level 3 - External recycling |
|
- Separation of waste according to classification (NBR 10004:2004). - Implementation of a selective collection system and partnerships
with waste pickers' cooperatives. - Implementation of reverse logistics for packaging. |
National Solid Waste Policy Brasil (2010) |
|
|
- Training employees on the
handle and transfer materials (in order to avoid product damage, loss of
materials, accidents with chemicals), and consequently, more generation of
solid waste and wastewater. |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Labeling with an automatic application, avoiding the use of
self-adhesive labels (this would imply a faster labeling process, without the
need for an operator occurring fewer label waste). |
CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Use of packaging with greater conditioning capacity. |
European Commission (2018) |
|
|
- Use of sustainable packaging with the practice of 3Rs (Reduce, Reuse
and Recycle), as well as biodegradable packaging. |
European Commission (2018); CETESB (2012) |
|
|
- Acquisition of a more modern sealing machine. This will increase the
efficiency of the packaging process, reducing the amounts of shavings (solid
waste), as well as reducing the consumption of electricity. Or even resize
the machine to losses and offcuts to a minimum. |
CETESB (2012) |
Based on the critical points
identified, 36 improvement strategies were suggested (Table 01), most of which
are related to level 1 of intervention (reduction at source). Among all of the
identified opportunities, 8 were related to the consumption of raw materials
and other inputs, 11 to the generation of solid waste, 4 corresponded to the
consumption of water, 4 related to energy consumption, 6 of the generation
wastewater and a small fraction to atmospheric emissions (3 opportunities).
Thus, the consumption of raw
materials was the aspect with identified critical points, and equally, more
opportunities for improvement were linked. It is worth mentioning that some
measures were common to different aspects.
The adoption of measures that can
minimize the impacts caused by the productive activity, developing strategies
for replacement, acquisition, reuse, among other available mechanisms, is an
important issue since the processes are not independent and there is no
production planning.
Regarding the consumption of raw
materials, one of the points raised was used raw materials of non-renewable
origin (for example, mineral oil). Many components used in personal care
products are the target of growing environmental worrying (Cassani and
Gramatica, 2015). The substitution of alternative raw materials should be
considered, especially in view of the current trend in the cosmetics market for
“eco-friendly” products and the decline in the supply of petrochemical raw
materials.
Mineral oils, for example, used in
all cosmetic products of the company are originated from a mixture of
hydrocarbons obtained from the purification process of petroleum (Carvalho and
Barbieri, 2012).
Another aspect is the use of
colorants and fragrances in formulations. These substances are important for
the appearance of cosmetics and characteristic pleasant smell, but they can be
associated with environmental and health problems. Thus, its exclusion is the
most suitable to obtain more sustainable formulations (Bom et al., 2019).
There are many options for
alternative raw materials, for example, the use of materials based on vegetable
oils and biopolymers in the formulation of cosmetics. These ingredients can be
replacing commercial polymers derived from petroleum which the chemistry
process is not always safe or environmentally friendly (Okereke et al., 2015).
Second Yara-Varón et al. (2017), the
vegetable oils present excellent natural properties such as global
availability, biodegradability, as well as minors cost economics and
environmental (low ecotoxicity). These properties confer advantages in the
development of value-added products such as cosmetics.
Regarding natural polymers, a review
study by Morin-Crini and Crini (2019) the authors highlight the use of
chitosan, a biopolymer obtained from chitin, for applications in cosmetics,
hygiene and personal care. Benabid and Zouai (2016) also investigated the
application of biopolymers in the cosmetic segment. The review included
advanced applications of natural polymers, including cellulose and chitosan.
Chaiyana et al. (2018) investigated the fatty acid content and antioxidant and
moisturizing effect of Camellia assamica
seed oil, which can be a promising oil to use in cosmetic formulations.
Residues can also be used
additionally in formulations of the cosmetic industry as ingredients. Ribeiro et al. (2013) assessed the
feasibility of using the lipid fraction of Spent Coffee Grounds (SCG), which
are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee, in the development of
new cosmetic formulations. This alternative presented characteristics
functionally promising and with good acceptance by consumers, as well as to be
a form recycle the wastes from the coffee industry.
These are just some options within
several possibilities. However, as affirms Bom et al. (2019), the inclusion of
organic ingredients or green chemicals in cosmetic formulations require most
research and assessment in relation to the safety, stability in its use and
performance regard to consumer aesthetic requests. Although bring positive
results, the environmental performance of the bio-based ingredient (natural
by-product derived one) can be affected by the treatments needed to make it
suitable for use as a cosmetic ingredient. Thus, it is important to adopt
integrated environmental assessment methods, based on the life cycle, to ensure
that chemical options respond to the need of reducing environmental impacts at
all stages of the life cycle of cosmetics (Secchi et al, 2016).
According to Bom et al. (2019), the
availability of environment-friendly raw materials has strengthened the
cosmetics industry to move towards sustainable development. In this bias,
another factor that has contributed is the promotion of the bioeconomy
(Cosmetics Europe, 2012), with a great interest in replacing substances of
fossil origin with renewable substances (Secchi et al. 2019). The replacement
of the raw material directly contributes sustainability of the sector since
actions are realized in this initial phase will reflect on the sustainability
of the final product.
Partnerships with local suppliers
(rural suppliers, such as traditional communities and family farmers for
example) are also seen as an opportunity for linked improvement. This model
reduces costs and affects environmental issues related to greenhouse gases
(considering minor product transport distances), a relationship of partnership
and co-construction with providers, valorization of local knowledge and good
social and environmental practices (Carvalho and Barbieri, 2012).
Besides the ingredients used and the
source of these products acquired, the magnitude of impacts is partially
related to the size of the product. According to Camargo et al. (2019), the
products with the highest impacts per unit are those with the greatest weight.
However, it has not been evaluated in the context of this study, which requires
additional research.
The generation of solid waste was
mainly related to the processes in the filling and packaging process. Reduce
the waste goes through the acquisition of the packing machine more modern (for
increasing the efficiency of the packaging secondary process) or even resize
the machine to losses into the minimum. In addition, the separation of other
waste according to classification, implementation of a selective collection system
and partnerships with waste pickers' cooperatives, as well as the
implementation of reverse logistics for packaging are other actions that can be
adopted.
The use of biodegradable packaging
and the practice of 3Rs (Reduce, Reuse and Recycle) were also reported. The
reduction of waste generated in the production process and related to
post-consumption is a crucial issue to achieve better environmental performance
in the cosmetics sector, especially of packaging. This is important, not only
under a sustainable perspective but also because it can be expensive to
discard. In January 2018 the European Commission adopted a strategy that
proposes to make all plastic packaging reusable or recyclable by 2030. In
addition, innovative materials and alternative materials should be developed
and used in packing (European Commission, 2018). Biopolymers or plastics of
plant origin and other materials such as bamboo and wood fiber are also finding
packaging applications (Bom et al., 2019). This should boost a new stance in
the cosmetic sector.
This is due to the results found by
studies and the consensus that exists regarding the impacts caused by
packaging. Camargo et al. (2019), when assessing the environmental impacts of
ten cosmetic products in a Brazilian company, identified that the main impacts
were concentrated on the extraction and production of ingredients and
packaging, followed by the phase of use that requires water and energy to use
rinse products.
Although water consumption is
relatively small, water is an essential component in cosmetics production
(either in the preparation of the product or in the secondary process). Thus,
the suggestions pointed can contribute to the best environmental performance in
the industry. They are mainly related to the process of cleaning, across Good
Manufacturing Practice. According to Gonçalves and Cerqueira (2018), the
clean-in-place (CIP) technique is more efficient in terms of reducing water
consumption in the manufacture of cosmetics comparing to other initiatives in cosmetics
factories in Brazil. Other actions related to water use are rainwater
harvesting and wastewater reuse (Cosmetics Europe, 2019b), as well as
installing flow meters in the cosmetic manufacturing process.
Regarding the generation of
effluents, it is advisable that the organization perform removal of the
residues adhered to the walls of the equipment before washing (by means of
mechanical) and make wastewater treatment through physical-chemical processes,
chemical (for example coagulation followed by precipitation) before being sent
to the treatment network municipal. However, the best in site wastewater
treatment technique must be evaluated according to the characteristics of the
effluent generated. This requires additional study.
Regarding atmospheric emissions, a
suggests is that emitters processes (or source emitters) of volatile organic
compounds or that generate particles go cloistered (CETESB, 2012). Second
Vargas-Gonzalez et.al (2019), among other indicators, the level of
concentrations acceptable particulate matter (PM) increase the quality of the
ecosystem and preserving human health internal (employees) and external (local
community).
The greenhouse gas emissions
reduction focused on product distribution thought route planning, unnecessary
load reduction, vehicle fleet maintenance and tire pressure. This allows to
improve fuel consumption in the product distribution phase and consequently
release of CO2 into the atmosphere less. Once the sector is adapting its
distribution practices to reduce emissions associated with cosmetics transport
(Cosmetics Europe, 2019b), these actions can be required in the future from
customers.
Another important issue, not yet
mentioned, is the changes in employee behavior. Training and capacity building
are tools that can be used aiming to raise awareness of environmental issues
and cleaner practices. Xanthos and Walker (2017), state that education has been
one of the best strategies to mitigate the negative impacts at the source
because while awareness grows, pollution decreases.
It is worth mentioning that the
recommended strategies may be different between companies (vary according to
size, level of technology used, for example). The changes are mainly aimed at
optimizing the cleaning process, reducing water consumption; production planning in batches (cosmetics
sequence production that uses the same equipment can economy washing steps);
replacement of old equipment with new ones; installation of electrical devices
with low energy consumption (for example, pumps, extruders); and “energy
recycling” (Cosmetics Europe, 2012).
Some suggestions for improvement are
common in CP studies. They are opportunities that do not depend on the
manufacturing type of product and they are applicable to different realities
(civil construction, food industry, textile sector, for example). They are
mainly related to energy consumption, such as searching for more sustainable
alternative energy sources, turning off equipment and machines when they are
not in use and installing lamps with sensors, for example. The practices of
3R’s (Reduce, Reuse and Recycle), as well as using biodegradable packaging are
also suggestions that can be applied in other types of industry.
The sustainable practices adopted by
the cosmetics industries can be a business successful opportunity and more
viable in the long term since this is a new beauty trend (Secchi et al., 2019).
It's the case of Natura, for example. The company shows a culture of valuation
and the insertion of sustainability in its business model, for its behavior
toward the sustainable use of biodiversity, which allowed its recognition in
Brazil and abroad. As an example of implemented actions, it can be mentioned
formulations that use plant products, preference for use of renewable raw
materials; use biodiversity assets whose origin can be traced or is certified
(such organic farming or sustainable forest management) and packaging that
prioritize renewable materials or post-consumption recycled materials (Carvalho
and Barbieri, 2012).
Recognition of aspects and
identification of critical points is crucial in this process. According to Camargo
et al. (2019), critical points are useful for considering alternative
processes, materials, or suppliers to reduce the impacts of your supply chain.
In relation to the suppliers, efforts to manage global impacts depend on the
choice of these and their commitment to reducing their own environmental
footprint, together with consumer awareness.
Second Carvalho and Barbieri (2012),
the analysis of the induction of social and environmental practices by a
Brazilian focal company of cosmetics, the incorporation of a sustainable
business model is possible when the company aligns its strategic sustainability
objectives with its power of innovation and involves direct and indirect
suppliers, in addition to developing new partners in its initiatives to find
innovation in products and processes.
It is known that for the purchase of
green cosmetics several factors have great importance (the health
consciousness, environmental concern, social factors, ecolabel, environmental
knowledge and price). However, second Liobikienė and Bernatonienė
(2017), the behavior of purchasing cosmetics is scarcely analyzed. The authors
reviewed 80 studies on consumer green purchase behavior and only 11 were on
cosmetics.
The identification, selection and
implementation of the CP opportunities can increase the reliability of the
process of decision making. However, the implementation of CP procedures can
face economic, environmental and technological barriers (Oliveira et al.,
2016). Second Nunes et al. (2019), despite its benefits, the CP practices have
low application rates in small and medium-sized enterprises which are
attributed to barriers such as a lack of resources, concentrated decision-making
by owners and lack of leadership.
This is an aspect to be taken into account since many companies do not
have the cash flow to implement actions that require greater investment.
However, it is important to note that other many actions are simple and can
generate a positive result in a low time, such as employee training, awareness
for good environmental practices and reducing the consumption of the resources.
Specific credit lines (targeted to companies with sustainable practices) can
assist to get new equipment and replacement of machinery for more modern
others.
4.
CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
The study made it possible to understand the production process of the
cosmetics factory and how the organization is positioned about environmental
issues. Practices and programs aimed at the environment no are used or were
implanted.
The organization has a medium polluting potential, due to the type of
raw materials used, high-energy consumption and a large amount of generated
solid waste.
Among the proposed alternatives, a large number were directed to level 1
of intervention (reduction at source) as from the substitution of raw
materials, implementation of the good manufacturing practices (housekeeping),
dissemination of the environmental culture, as well as technological changes.
The improvement opportunities presented can result in gains in
productivity, avoid wasting material and rework. In addition, it serves as a
subsidy and directs environmentally appropriate actions, contributing to the
adoption of a more responsible and committed attitude by the organization.
In addition, environmentally responsible customers can request them at some
moment, since the "clean beauty industry" seems to be a growing trend
and a business opportunity.
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